Trastevere is the neighbourhood on the west bank of the Tiber, just south of the Vatican. Its tight medieval lanes, old churches and busy evening piazzas make it one of the most walked parts of Rome. The streets are free; the churches keep their own hours.
One of the oldest churches in Rome, with a mosaic facade and a 12th-century golden apse mosaic, on the neighbourhood's main square.
Two quieter churches with a Cavallini fresco fragment and a Bernini sculpture respectively, a short walk south of the main piazza.
A Renaissance villa with frescoes by Raphael and his workshop, and, up the hill, the Janiculum terrace with a wide view over Rome and a cannon fired at noon.
Walking Trastevere is free and the area is liveliest in the evening. Church opening hours are limited, often a morning and a late-afternoon window, and Villa Farnesina charges admission and closes early. Check each site's hours before you plan a route.
There is no single sight. A loose route through the lanes, a couple of churches and a stop for food is the way most guided and self-guided visits work.
Mornings are calm and good for the churches. Evenings fill the piazzas and are when the food and wine tours run.
Cross Ponte Sisto from Campo de' Fiori and you are there in a few minutes, so it pairs easily with a day in the historic centre.
Do I need a ticket for Trastevere?
No. It is a residential neighbourhood, free to walk at any hour. Only Villa Farnesina and a few museums charge admission.
Is a guided tour worth it?
Food and history walks add context and take you past places you would miss. The area is also easy to explore alone with a rough plan.
When are the churches open?
Most open for a few hours in the morning and again in the late afternoon, and close over lunch. Times vary by church.
Is it safe in the evening?
The main piazzas are busy and lively at night. As anywhere crowded, keep an eye on bags and valuables.
Trastevere, from the Latin for beyond the Tiber, is the 13th rione of Rome, on the river's west bank opposite the historic centre. It kept a working-class, village character into the 20th century and retains its medieval street plan.
It is known for Santa Maria in Trastevere and its mosaics, the churches of Santa Cecilia and San Francesco a Ripa, Villa Farnesina, and the Janiculum viewpoint above it, as well as its restaurants and nightlife.
This page is an independent guide for visitors. It is not affiliated with any tour operator or city body.
